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EZ Tunnel Race Boat Plans
Page Seven
Hull Trim

I put a molding on the side of my EZ Tunnel for the sole reason to visually break up the tall, vertical side. Because of the shape of this boat, it seems unlikely this molding will provide much protection from bumps against the dock or whatever. So it's merely cosmetic, and you can decide to put one or your boat, or not.

I suggest making this molding the same width as the bow molding, discussed below. That way the two moldings will intersect neatly. Round over, or otherwise shape, the molding with a router or with hand tools before installing. You might even find a suitable molding at your local lumber yard or home center.

Any wood will do; this molding does not protrude in a way that makes it likely to get bumped.

The bow molding is more important in terms of protecting your boat. A good hardwood, such as oak, is an excellent choice here. But a harder piece of pine also will work very well.

The thickness of the molding will depend on how thick the bow of your boat turned out, which in turn depends on the thickness of the plywood you used.

Start by trimming the deck and tunnel plank flush with the bow beam with a plane or belt sander.

Using screws space a few inches apart, install the molding while it is still rectangular...

... then plane or sand the upper surface to match the slope of the deck. The screws can be removed, and probably will have to be before shaping can be done.

Lastly, round the corners and blend with the side moldings (if you've decided to install them).

The molding along the top of the coaming is also a good idea, especially if your coaming is only one layer thick forward of bulkhead four.

I made my molding 7/8 inch wide and 1/2 inch thick and shaped it before installing.

Glue and clamps are all you need for installation. No screws are necessary.

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