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Laker SC12 Tunnel Race Boat Plans
Page Eight
Deck

Now is time to seal the inside surfaces of the hull. Use epoxy, or varnish, or paint, taking care to avoid surfaces to which the deck will be glued.

Before installing the deck, flotation must be installed. Two-part pour foam is typically used, although I have also used high-density insulation board.

The area to be filled must first be lined with plastic. Because: 1) The foam will adhere to the structure of your boat as it expands and cures; and 2) As it fully cures, it shrinks somewhat, and, as I've learned from unhappy experience, will distort your boat in the process.

Racers: Four cubic feet of foam are required for Sport C boats.

If the expanding foam rises above deck level, the excess can be cut off with a handsaw and further trimmed with a belt sander or disc sander.

IMPORTANT: If you do cut into the foam, seal the cut surfaces with epoxy to prevent water from soaking into the foam.

The inner and outer decking meet at the tunnel side. The inner deck, which is installed first, extends from the carlin to the inner-most deck stringer, but does not overlap the edge of the tunnel side.

Except....

... over the tunnel extension where a little extra plywood is needed.

Forward of station three, the two parts of the deck diverge, the inner deck descending to the bow beam.

Although the edge of the inner deck is straight, the edge of outer deck is gently curved where the two meet.

Use a block plane, sanding block or belt sander to bevel the edge of the outer deck. Perfection is not required. Any gaps can be readily filled with epoxy sanding filler.

The outer deck completed. (Photo shown is the Dillon Laker 14.) As with all other plywood joints on this project, scarfs or butt blocks are used.

As mentioned before, you may choose to install the deck first then the coaming, or the other way around. I installed the deck first so that the plywood could be neatly trimmed along the carlin for a nice tight joint with the coaming.

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