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Pro Vee Race Boat Plans
Page Two
Keel, Coaming Battens, Stem and Breasthook

Keel

Add a 3/4" x 3/4" cleat along the bottom edge of each bulkhead and the transom, if you haven't done so already. Put a layer of plastic packing tape, or masking tape, over the cleat at bulkhead three so that this temporary piece does not accidently become glued to the keel. Also, if not already done, cut limbers in the bottom edges of bulkheads two and four to make sure bilgewater will be able to find its way to the transom.

Draw the two layers of the keel, including the certerlines, on 3/8" plywood. Cut them out, then continue the centerlines around to the opposite surface.

The first layer, the wider one, is screwed and glued to bulkheads two and four and the transom. Make certain the centerlines of the bulkheads and transom precisely line up with the centerline on the keel.

Do not attach bulkhead three to the keel at this time. After the second layer of the keel has been glued to the first, a couple of screws can be driven UP through the cleat on the bulkhead and into the keel. These screws will be easily accessable later when it is time to remove this temporary bulkhead.

The second layer is centered on the first. Use plenty of screws and/or clamps when gluing it on.

Now it is time to permanently install bulkhead one and the stem, as well as the outer parts of bulkhead three.

Temporary Bracing

At this point your boat should be nice and straight along the coamings from bulkhead two to the transom. But forward of bulkhead two may need some help. So temporary bracing will be required here. Use however much it takes to hold everything straight and square.

My Pro Vee needed bracing in three areas, as seen in the photo.

Lifting Beams

If you want or need a pair of lifting rings in your cockpit, then you will have already cut out the optional large notches in bulkheads three and four for the lifting beam. Cut your lengths of 2x4 (1.5" x 3.5") a little long, so that they run three or four inches behond the bulkheads.

The idea here is to have the u-bolt lift-rings fastened to heavy structure which is itself solidly glued to several parts of the boat: the coaming, the bottom and two bulkheads. The nylon lifting harness you will need for your boat will clip onto these rings, plus two more on the inside face of the transom, to be hoisted on the scale with the driver on board -- a 650 lb. minimum load for a legal GT Pro racer.

Locate the u-bolts about three inches aft of bulkhead three. Do not put them too close to the bottom edge of the 2x4 as this edge will be beveled off later.

Coaming Stringer

What I call the coaming stringer is a 3/4" x 1" longitudinal which extends along the bottom edge of the coaming from bulkhead one to the transom. OR, from bulkhead one to the lifting beam, then continuing from the aft end of the lifting beam to the transom.

Add similar stringers to both sides of the stem. You can use 3/4" x 1" stock and bend it along the curve of the stem. Or you can do as I did: glue two or three pairs of somewhat wider pieces, and then shape them to the stems curve later.

In either case, do not carry these pieces closer than four or five inches from the forward end of the stem -- leave room for the breasthook.

Breasthook

The breasthook is a pair of triangles glued to the stem, ready to receive the sheer clamps. I cut a notch in each one to make clamping them in place easier.

Draw a centerline on the two exposed faces. This line will correspond to the reference line on the stem.

Small cleats, or glue blocks, are glued to the ends of the bulkheads. The blocks on bulkheads one and two will need be angled to match the bend of the sheer clamps. You can find that angle by bending a batten, or the sheer clamps themselves, around the structure.

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