Pro Vee Race Boat Plans
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Outer Transom The first piece of planking is the outer transom. It strengthens the transom, and covers the ends of the longitudinals -- two of which, the carlins, have yet to be installed. Start by cutting two slots to fit around the coaming. Slip it into place and trace around the inner transom. NOTE: The two vertical glue blocks shown in this, and the next two, photos were later removed to make changes to the transom/motorboard structure. Your boat should not have these glue blocks. | |
Drain Hole Now is a good time to install a drain hole. I have made drain holes in various way, and this is the one I've come to prefer. Drill a hole significantly larger than the plug you intend to use: for instance, for a 3/4" plug (shown here), bore a 1" hole. Now completely fill the hole with silica-thickened epoxy. | |
Then drill through the center a hole the proper size for your plug. | |
Bottom Planking The curvy shape of the bottom dictates that it be planked with two layers of 3mm plywood. | |
I found it simplest and most efficient to use a full length of plywood from the transom forward, and use a smaller piece to deal with the compound curves of the bow area. I did the same for the second layer, but made sure I cut the sheets a little different so that the scarf joints did not lie exactly on top of each other. I highly recommend a complete dry assembly of each bottom panel so that you that you will know where each clamp and screw will be located and final assembly will go smoothly with no surprises. Make certain the plywood makes good contact with all gluing surfaces. Clamps can be used along the sheer and stem, and at least part of the transom. Screws will be needed in the interior areas and along the keel. Weights could also be used, but since none of these screw holes will need to be filled, screws seem the best choice. All screws can be removed once the epoxy has cured. During intallation of the first layer, I applied a layer of epoxy to the inside surface of the plywood, sealing it and waterproofing it. Start by installing one side of the first layer. | |
After the glue dries, trim the plywood along the stem, then install the other half of the first layer. | |
I suggest a complete dry assembly of the second layer as well (one side of the hull at a time) so that you know where all your clamps and screws will go. The second layer is applied the same as the first, except now you must make sure to get good contact between the two layers. Again, clamps can be use along the sheer and transom. Screws will be needed wherever there is framing to hold them. I used weights in other areas as needed. Screws may work as well, but with such thin plywood they have little to hang on to; you may need to back up each screw with a small block of wood. Use plenty of thickened epoxy between layers, so that any remaining gaps will hopefully be filled. | |
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