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Building The Dillon Sport C
Page Two

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I applied three coats of epoxy to the bottom, but just don't want to sand it out now. I'll roll it over on the lawn this spring and do it out in the open air.

So, over it goes. Time to run some more stringers and get ready for the cockpit and deck.

Where the side meets the deck is known as the "sheer." Here I am installing the stringer there, known as the "sheer clamp."

The shape of the deck emerges as the deck battens are installed.

At this point, the boat also serves as a handy place to store clamps, electric drills, chisels, planes, boxes of stuff, odd bits of rope, wood scraps, and anything else I'm too lazy to put away -- all threatening to crush the boat under the shear weight.

All the stringers in place, except the carlins, which will have to wait for a test fit of the cockpit. Getting ready to install the upper sides.

I calculated that the hull at this point needed be 150 lbs. or less. It weighed in at 110 lbs. Very happy to see that I'm on the right track.

First test fit for the cockpit.

At first I thought I'd mount it this way. Afterall, we only turn left.

That looks better.

I still need to notch the edges to fit over the beams. It will nestle in about two inches lower than it is in the pic.

There, settled into its full depth -- I think.

The coaming cut, and set in place.

Not looking much different from photos above, but....

I installed the steering, dash components, throttle, shifter and trim gauge, and then installed the cockpit, glued and bolted in place.

The steering shaft, wheel and drum are in place, with cable on the drum ready to run through the coaming pulleys when they are installed after painting. The dash is wired, the bundles bungied to the bow to get them out of the way for now.

Best of all, the boat weighs just 213 lbs. at this point, which I project to about 605 lbs. total. That's 70 lbs. underweight!! Surely there is weight that I can't account for right now, but I doubt if there's 70 lbs. worth.

The carlins (where the deck meets the cockpit) have been installed, flotation poured, the tip of the cockpit formed.

Finally time for the deck. I have some large scraps of 3mm marine, but only wide enough to cover the sponsons. The remainder, seen here, is 5mm exterior. The 3mm will be installed first, to be overlapped by the 5mm.

The remaining part of the deck cut out, and the entire setup temporarily tacked in place.

The deck is now installed.

The decking over the sponsons is 3mm okoume marine. The remainder is 5mm luan. I did this to make use of some full-length scraps of 3mm. And avoid having to purchase several hundred dollars worth of new plywood. (I have to either drive a long way or get the stuff shipped to me; buying two or three sheets at a time is not sensible.)

Starting to work on the sponson tips.

The luan overlaps the okoume with an inch-wide rabbet routed into the 5mm sheets.

An advantage to the thicker "inner deck" is having a stronger place to step when getting into or out of the boat.

The disadvantage is the increased weight; I calculate about 3 lbs. extra.

Finally, a coat of primer brings it all together.

And finally it's done!

Except for a bit more setup.

One other issue. You've all heard stories about a guy who builds a boat in his basement, only to realize there's no way to get it out of the basement...?

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