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Mini Tunnel (Redesigned Version) Boat Plans
Page Four
Sponson Stringers

The sponson keels, where the sponson pads meet the tunnel sides, are simply glued to the edge of the tunnel side.

If you haven't done it already, it's now time to install the outer bulkhead sections. Again, align the reference line on the bulkhead with the reference line on the tunnel side.

Adding glue blocks to the bulkheads for the chine and the sheer clamp.

The blocks at stations three and two and at the sponson tip need to be angled to properly mate to these stringers. Bend a batten around the structure at these locations to determine these angles.

The aft-most part of the sponson pads should be as flat as possible, and the installation of the sponson battens is a good time to start thinking about this.

With the battens nestled in their notches, lay a level or other straigh edge on top of them and look for high and low spots. Adjust the notches in your bulkheads as needed -- file down those not quite deep enough; shim those too deep.

You're not looking for perfection at this point. There will be a second chance to make adjustments after the battens are glued in place.

To avoid cutting up Bulkhead 1 too much, only carry one of the Sponson Battens all the way forward. The other two are dead-ended just short of the Bulkhead, and are attached to the middle Batten with a glue block.

In the photo, the block below the Battens is being glued in place. The other block helps to properly align the Battens, and acts as a pad for the clamp.

The plans call for Chine Logs measuring 1/2"x1". However, you may want to use two pieces (for each Chine) at 1/4"x1", bending both halves of the lamination in the same operation, gluing them together along their entire length.

A complete dry assembly, so that you know exactly how it best goes into place and how it is best held in place, is crucial to success of this operation.

The Shear Clamps should bend in without much fuss. Again, you might want to laminate these from two layers of 1/4" stock.

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