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Mini Tunnel (Redesigned Version) Boat Plans
Page Seven

The coamings are integral parts of the structure of the hull, helping to strengthen the wide expanse of stringers and plywood between the tunnel sides. As such, from bulkhead three to the tunnel extension, they must be accurately fitted to the tunnel plank (easily done; the tunnel is flat from bow to stern) and firmly attached to the two tunnel battens that you earlier located exactly 9.25 inches either side of the centerline.

Granted, forward of Bulkhead #3, the coamings begin to bend inward and will no longer attach to any tunnel battens. But the coaming's structural importance is much less important in this part of the boat.

The bottom profile of the coaming is a straight line. Still, it needs to be notched to fit over the beams at each station. For this reason you may want to use some scrap plywood to make a template of the bottom edge of your coaming.

Or, you can scarf together full coaming panels, bend them into place over the beams and mark them for cutting.

Make sure your plywood is pressed tightly against the carlin along its entire length to ensure an accurate profile.

The coaming extends a little bit forward of the bow beam -- but not as much as in this photo which is from the Laker 14. The "Coaming" drawing shows 3/4", but you can extend it to whatever length seems good to you.

Here the nearly complete coaming has been bent into place. The "peak" of the coaming is established -- where the dashboard will be. The height at the motorboard is also established and the top edge of the coaming from motorboard to peak cut straight.

The downward slope from the peak to the bow has not yet been established. At this time, decide how high your coaming should be at the bow beam to create the nose you desire. Again, the "Coaming" drawing shows three inches, but you may have other another vision in mind.

Once you have marked the desired height at the bow beam, remove the coaming and cut a straight line from the peak to your mark.

You will need to notch the coaming at the forward edge of the transom beam so that you do not block the limbers you cut earlier. The second notch shown here applies to the Laker 14 and probably not your Mini Tunnel.

My recommendation: DO NOT install the coamings at this time. It will be easier to fit the deck without the coaming in the way. In fact, I prefer to install the deck first so that it can be neatly trimmed along the carlin for nice tight joint.

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